Open:

Device Manager → Network adapters

Look for your wireless/Wi-Fi adapter.

If it's there:
Check whether it has a warning symbol or is disabled. You can also open Properties → Device status and see whether Windows reports an error.

If it isn't there:
In Device Manager, try View → Show hidden devices and then Action → Scan for hardware changes.

If it reappears, that provides a useful clue.

Because the connection was already unstable before Wi-Fi disappeared, I'd also check the laptop/motherboard manufacturer's website for the correct Wi-Fi driver rather than immediately installing a random driver package.

Another useful test is a full shutdown, not simply Restart. Shut the PC down completely, leave it off briefly and start it again.

If the adapter repeatedly disappears from Device Manager—especially after gaming, waking from sleep, or operating for some time—I'd start considering more than just Windows settings. The wireless card itself, power management, driver stability or hardware connection could be involved.

If you're experiencing this, reply with:

Windows version:
PC/laptop model:
Wi-Fi adapter shown in Device Manager?:
Any Device Manager error code?:

Those details will make it much easier to narrow down.

I've seen cases where Wi-Fi was working normally, then the connection started becoming unstable or disconnecting while gaming. After restarting the PC, the Wi-Fi icon and Wi-Fi option disappeared completely.

At that point it isn't just a case of being unable to connect to a network — Windows seems to stop showing Wi-Fi altogether.

What would be the best way to determine whether this is a Wi-Fi driver problem, Windows disabling the adapter, or the wireless adapter itself failing?

If you've had this happen, did the Wi-Fi adapter still appear in Device Manager?

The important clue isn't simply that the GPU reaches the 80s. It's what happens during the side-panel test.

If the GPU drops from the high 80s to roughly the mid-60s under similar load after removing the glass panel, the GPU cooler has demonstrated that it can cool the card much more effectively when supplied with cooler outside air.

With a closed case that has almost no front ventilation and only one rear fan, hot air can accumulate inside the chassis while the GPU and CPU repeatedly recycle warmer internal air.

A mesh-front case with three front intake fans and one rear exhaust fan would normally provide a much better airflow path:

Cool air → front intake → CPU/GPU → rear exhaust

So before spending money on a new CPU cooler or attempting more aggressive solutions, improving case airflow would be a very reasonable first step.

A used case isn't automatically a problem either. If the friend's case is structurally sound, the fans work, the front mesh isn't damaged, the required components fit, and the price is significantly lower, its age alone wouldn't prevent it from providing better airflow.

I'd still check:

• Dust buildup on the GPU and CPU cooler
• Whether all fans are actually spinning correctly
• Fan orientation
• GPU fan curve
• CPU cooler mounting
• Ambient room temperature

But the side-panel temperature comparison is the strongest clue here.

If anyone is diagnosing a similar problem, test temperatures under approximately the same workload with the case closed and then with the side panel removed. A dramatic improvement with the panel removed points strongly toward restricted case ventilation.

In one example, the GPU was reaching the high 80s under full load and the CPU was around the high 70s. After removing the tempered-glass side panel, both temperatures dropped considerably, with the GPU falling into the mid-60s.

The case had very limited airflow, no mesh front and only a single rear fan.

Would a temperature difference that large with the side panel removed be a strong indication that the case itself is restricting airflow?

And in a situation like this, would moving the components into a basic mesh-front case with three front intake fans and one rear exhaust fan likely make a significant difference, or should other cooling problems be investigated first?

The first useful test is whether other devices still have internet access on exactly the same Wi-Fi network when the Samsung says “Connected without internet.”

If they do, try narrowing it down:

1. Forget and reconnect to the Wi-Fi network

Go to the Wi-Fi settings, forget the affected network, reconnect and enter the password again.

2. Restart the phone and router

If restarting the phone fixes it but the problem eventually returns, make a note of that. The temporary nature of the fix is an important clue.

3. Test another Wi-Fi network

If the same Samsung develops the problem on several unrelated networks, that points the investigation more toward the phone/software than one particular router.

4. Check the MAC address setting

On supported Samsung devices, open the settings for the connected Wi-Fi network and look for MAC address type.

Some Samsung users have reported improvement after switching from Randomized MAC to Phone MAC, although this isn't a universal fix.

5. Check whether you have a mesh Wi-Fi system or multiple access points

This one is particularly interesting.

A Galaxy A57 owner experiencing this in 2026 traced the failure to the point where the phone roamed between access points using the same SSID. Separating the access points onto different SSIDs stopped the “Connected without internet” behavior in their testing.

That doesn't mean every case has the same cause, but anyone using a mesh system or multiple access points should mention it.

6. Leave a full network reset until later

If the simpler tests don't reveal anything, Samsung's network reset can be tried, but remember that it removes saved network configuration.

If you're experiencing this, reply with:

Samsung model:
Android/One UI version:
Router or mesh system:
Does restarting fix it temporarily?:
Do other devices keep working?:

Comparing those details may help determine whether these reports share the same underlying cause.

I've found reports where every other phone, computer and device on the same network continues working normally, but the Samsung device suddenly loses internet access while remaining connected to Wi-Fi.

Sometimes restarting the phone or turning Wi-Fi off and back on temporarily fixes it, but then the problem returns.

What's interesting is that I've also seen cases where people tried forgetting the network, resetting network settings and even changing phones without permanently solving it.

Has anyone figured out what actually causes this on Samsung devices?

If you've experienced it, what Galaxy model are you using, and does restarting the phone fix it temporarily?

If the sign-in page doesn't appear automatically, I'd try these in order:

1. Disconnect and reconnect to the Wi-Fi

After reconnecting, check your notifications or Wi-Fi settings for something like “Sign in to network.”

2. Open a normal HTTP page

Try opening:

http://neverssl.com

Because it uses HTTP rather than HTTPS, the public network may be able to redirect it to its login page. This is still being recommended for captive-portal troubleshooting in current support discussions.

3. Temporarily disable Private DNS/VPN

If you're using Android Private DNS, a VPN, proxy, ad-blocking DNS or another custom DNS configuration, temporarily disabling it is worth testing.

4. Turn off mobile data temporarily

Then reconnect to Wi-Fi and try loading the login page again.

5. Forget the network

Forget the Wi-Fi network completely, reconnect and see whether the captive portal is detected again.

6. Try another browser

Interestingly, one Pixel user experiencing this in June 2026 reported that another browser finally triggered the public Wi-Fi sign-in page after their previous attempts didn't.

7. Check the MAC/privacy setting

If your device allows you to switch between a randomized/private MAC address and the device MAC for that particular network, this can also be worth testing. There are reports where changing this setting caused the captive portal to appear again.

Don't enter sensitive account credentials into a page simply because it appears after joining public Wi-Fi. Make sure it actually belongs to the network/provider you're trying to access.

If you're having this problem, post your phone/device model, Android/iOS version, and whether http://neverssl.com triggers the login screen. That may help determine whether everyone is seeing the same captive-portal issue.

I'm talking about Wi-Fi at places like hotels, airports, workplaces, restaurants or other public networks where you're normally supposed to get a page asking you to sign in or accept the terms.

The device connects to Wi-Fi but then says “No internet” or “Connected without internet,” and there's no sign-in notification or page.

I've seen people mention trying things like forgetting and reconnecting to the network, disabling Private DNS, changing the MAC address setting, turning off mobile data, or manually opening a normal HTTP website to trigger the login page.

Has anyone found a reliable way to force the public Wi-Fi login page to appear when this happens?

Also, if you've experienced it, what phone/device were you using?

Before reinstalling Windows, I'd narrow it down:

1. Try Ctrl + Alt + Del

If clicking works again after opening the Ctrl + Alt + Del screen and returning to Windows, mention that here. Several users with similar symptoms have reported this as a temporary workaround, although it doesn't explain the underlying cause.

2. Disconnect other input devices

Unplug any controllers, additional mice, drawing tablets, wireless USB receivers or other input devices. Also check whether a Bluetooth mouse/controller could still be connected.

3. Test another mouse and USB port

If two completely different mice produce exactly the same problem, that makes a simple failed mouse less likely.

4. Check whether the keyboard still works

Try:

Ctrl + Shift + Esc

Win + R

Alt + Tab

If keyboard navigation works while mouse clicks don't, that's another useful clue.

5. Restart Windows Explorer

If Task Manager can be opened with the keyboard, restarting Windows Explorer is worth testing. If that immediately restores clicking, mention it in the thread.

6. Check Safe Mode

If the problem disappears in Safe Mode, a third-party program, service or driver becomes more suspicious. If it continues in Safe Mode, that's equally useful information.

7. Don't rush into another Windows reinstall

If someone has already performed a clean installation and the exact problem returns, I'd investigate connected hardware, drivers and anything being automatically reinstalled before simply reinstalling Windows again.

If you're experiencing this, tell us whether Ctrl + Alt + Del temporarily fixes it, whether the keyboard still responds, and whether it also happens in Safe Mode. Those three details could help narrow down whether everyone here is actually experiencing the same issue.

The mouse cursor still moves around the screen, but left and right click don't respond. The Start menu, taskbar, desktop icons and open windows can't be clicked.

I've seen people describing this even after trying another mouse, restarting Windows Explorer, using recovery options, or reinstalling Windows.

One particularly strange workaround I've come across is pressing Ctrl + Alt + Del and then returning to the desktop. For some people, clicking starts working again temporarily.

Has anyone figured out what's actually causing this? Could it be Windows Explorer, an input driver, another connected device, or something else?

If you've experienced it, what eventually fixed it permanently?